A departure again from what we've come to expect from this cuvée. The 2022 is a blend of 70 year-old Mourvèdre and Grenache Noir, fermented and aged in amphora and barrels for 6 months. Seriously limited quantities on this one this year.
2022 was a difficult and dry vintage, but thanks to rain at the crucial point before harvest, the wines have been left with that real lift and freshness that Laurent and Melissa like. Totem is the darkest of the Mataburros reds, and is showing plenty of dark fruits alongside supple, smooth tannins. A wonderfully structured, elegant wine with a great complexity that makes you want to take your time with the bottle. All balanced out by that Mataburro signature lightness that cannot be missed.
The origin of the domaine moniker is somewhat macabre: Laurent Roger and Melissa Ingrand’s project is named for the railway line that runs just behind their vines. The first in the Perpignan region, on its opening day in 1910 two unfortunate donkeys were killed by trains. Mataburro means 'donkey killer'.
Laurent’s family were winemakers and his father farmed 40ha of vines before selling all but three in 2000. Laurent’s journey into natural wine started while working at La Verre Volé for few years. He decided to get his hands dirty and, after studies with Alain Castex of Le Casot des Mailloles, he and Melissa took over his father’s vines in October 2017. The three hectares are in one piece in Rivesaltes. Old Grenache vines planted by his grandfather in 1949 and young Merlot planted 30 years ago by his father.
To have maximum soil life he does not plough, using green manure planting instead. Vineyards are worked organically with the only treatments used sulphur, copper and some essential oils. Winemaking uses native yeast with no fining or filtration. Soils are mostly clay on limestone with some galets roulés for the old Grenache vines and deep clays for the Merlot. Climate is Mediterranean with maritime influence. The wines retain great delicacy and freshness, the mark of Laurent’s teacher shining through.
