As fans of this grape from the Layon area, this is plenty to get excited about. There is that taut, cheese wire of acidity that we look for, coiled tightly around a rich, opulent (grölden?) texture, bolstered by the grapes being briefly macerated on their skins at the start of the vinification. Daring, unconventional and most certainly under-the-radar Loire experimentalism. Find out more.

With a label that gives the impression that this wine could in fact be a drinkable Diptyque candle, the elusive Jerome Saurigny returns with his 2021 rouge. Lifted, sanguine and a must for anyone with a taste for the rare and alluring. Production is tiny and our allocation this year was just a few bottles. Find out more.

Jérôme's plush, savoury red, that throws in a little Sauvignon Blanc for good measure. The deep, herbaceous fruit is unmistakably Cabernet (on both counts), with peppery spice and nice bitters at the core. That lightning bolt of acidity strikes again, right down the centre. Prepossessing stuff that is hard to put down! Find out more.