Patricia & Remi's shape-shifting white maceration, formerly known as Metonymia, makes a return in a new guise and a return to an old blend. A ten-day whole-bunch co-maceration of Viognier, Marsanne & Roussanne grown over limestone, acquired from the Gard in the south. The wine is pressed off and raised half in steel and half in their imported Spanish tinaja for seven months before bottling with no additions.
A powerfully structured wine, balancing relatively low gravity with bold, mouth-coating tannins. A hazy, sandy gold in the glass, there is an abundance of intense apricot fruits with a peach iced tea-like quality that lends real dryness to the palate as it tails into a long, herb-flecked finish. A true gourmand wine, it is most at home on the dinner table and will stand up to some powerful flavours, be it intense, robust andouillette (tried and tested and lived to tell the tale) all the way through to punchy, aromatic Thai (also verified). Whilst drinking well now in its early days, it has a vin de garde profile that suggests a long life ahead of it.
Rémi Bonneton started working the vineyards of the Northern Rhône in the early 2000s, not tending vines or harvesting grapes, but working with his two horses, Suspens and Palynka, offering his unique services to plough the soils at some of the most coveted domaines in this part of France. After making a little of his own wine along the way, cut to 2013 when he and his wife Patricia found their very first vineyard parcel of old-vine Syrah on the steep slopes of the Doux Valley, right at the very northern tip of the Ardèche. Despite the sheer terracing the land is worked à la Bonneton: by horse and plough. It’s physical, demanding work and no light undertaking - perfect for Rémi who in his previous life was a professional rower. This domaine totals just under 2 hectares and includes another parcel close to Tournon Sur Rhône planted with Roussanne and Marsanne on a hill over the border in the Northern Rhône, sitting opposite the iconic vineyards of Cornas and Saint-Joseph. The vines at both sites see no chemical treatments and this approach is followed into the cellar where the wines ferment spontaneously and have nothing added. The 3000 or so bottles of wine produced each year from these vineyards is bottled as L’Alezan. This small surface of their own means that 90% of Patricia & Remi's annual output is through their négociant label, La Tangente. Some cuvées are repeated and carefully honed each year, seeking that perfect expression. Others embrace the spirit of creativity and are either a variation on a previous vintage or a completely new wine altogether. Everything is made in the mixture of cuve, demi-muid, foudre and clay amphora (specifically ‘tinaja’, imported from Spain) that live in the cellar beneath their house. They work with a network of friends and growers in other parts of France (mainly the Southern Rhône, Languedoc & Beaujolais) and buy in a dizzying amount of fruit - travelling with their harvest teams to pick the grapes themselves before transporting them back home to Étables. The logistical feat is highly impressive, and once one considers the finite amount of space in a cellar to press the fruit and make the wine, along with the art of harvesting fruit from multiple locations at exactly the right moment, the number of moving parts starts to inspire a feeling of vertigo. Patricia & Remi thrive under this pressure, and we believe that the way they push themselves each year is exactly why their wines are such a thrill to drink. Combined with their passionate stance against any additions being used in the wine whatsoever, they are an expression of personality like none we have tried before.
