The latest geography-straddling cuvée from Patricia & Remi, here using the uncommon blend of Sylvanver, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne, the latter two varietals coming from the Gard and the former from Alsace. As with many of their negociant wines, it's about building a blend based on the qualities of the grapes themselves rather than a specific expression of place. In this case the grapes from the south lend ripeness and texture, cut through with a bright acidity from the Alsatian element.
An inviting hazy gold in the glass, with straw-like aromas and an undertone of tinned tropical fruit. The palate really zings; white peach, lemon rind and a mouthwatering acidity that rounds and softens as it moves into the finish. The grapes were all directly pressed into steel tank where they co-fermented and, after racking, rested until the spring of 2024 before bottling.
Rémi Bonneton started working the vineyards of the Northern Rhône in the early 2000s, not tending vines or harvesting grapes, but working with his two horses, Suspens and Palynka, offering his unique services to plough the soils at some of the most coveted domaines in this part of France. After making a little of his own wine along the way, cut to 2013 when he and his wife Patricia found their very first vineyard parcel of old-vine Syrah on the steep slopes of the Doux Valley, right at the very northern tip of the Ardèche. Despite the sheer terracing the land is worked à la Bonneton: by horse and plough. It’s physical, demanding work and no light undertaking - perfect for Rémi who in his previous life was a professional rower. This domaine totals just under 2 hectares and includes another parcel close to Tournon Sur Rhône planted with Roussanne and Marsanne on a hill over the border in the Northern Rhône, sitting opposite the iconic vineyards of Cornas and Saint-Joseph. The vines at both sites see no chemical treatments and this approach is followed into the cellar where the wines ferment spontaneously and have nothing added. The 3000 or so bottles of wine produced each year from these vineyards is bottled as L’Alezan. This small surface of their own means that 90% of Patricia & Remi's annual output is through their négociant label, La Tangente. Some cuvées are repeated and carefully honed each year, seeking that perfect expression. Others embrace the spirit of creativity and are either a variation on a previous vintage or a completely new wine altogether. Everything is made in the mixture of cuve, demi-muid, foudre and clay amphora (specifically ‘tinaja’, imported from Spain) that live in the cellar beneath their house. They work with a network of friends and growers in other parts of France (mainly the Southern Rhône, Languedoc & Beaujolais) and buy in a dizzying amount of fruit - travelling with their harvest teams to pick the grapes themselves before transporting them back home to Étables. The logistical feat is highly impressive, and once one considers the finite amount of space in a cellar to press the fruit and make the wine, along with the art of harvesting fruit from multiple locations at exactly the right moment, the number of moving parts starts to inspire a feeling of vertigo. Patricia & Remi thrive under this pressure, and we believe that the way they push themselves each year is exactly why their wines are such a thrill to drink. Combined with their passionate stance against any additions being used in the wine whatsoever, they are an expression of personality like none we have tried before.
