Aussitôt Bue 2020 | Wayward Wines

Hubert & Heidi Hausherr
Aussitôt Bue 2020

  • Region Eguisheim, Alsace, France
  • Grapes Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer & Auxerrois
  • Vineyard Biodynamic
  • Cellar Fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered & unfined, no additional sulphites
  • ABV 13.5%
  • Size 750ml

Quantity

About the wine

In recent years one of the big challenges in this part of France has been slow or stuck fermentations. Whilst different methods can be employed to combat this, like maybe blending in freshly pressed juice from a more recent vintage to kick-start movement again. In cases such as this things have been left just as they are and bottled as a medium-sweet wine with its own unique character.

Here we have a blend of half Pinot Gris with roughly 25% each Gewürztraminer and Auxerrois, which after going through carbonic maceration was pressed into old barrels to rest, where fermentation ceased leaving around 11 grams of sugar per litre in the wine.

In harmony with the sweetness, it retains a beautiful, soaring acidity and the electric tropical fruits a twang of sherbet. Picking up a gentle oxidative note as the wine matured in the barrel, there are complex layers of walnut and spice that make this a fantastic glass to pour after dinner, when the cheeses come out - particularly the mature alpine variety.

About Hubert & Heidi Hausherr

Hubert & Heidi Hausherr, along with their long-serving draft horse Skippy, are working just shy of four hectares of vines around the leafy medieval village of Eguisheim.

In a region renowned for its diverse terroirs, the vines are dotted around in a number of small parcels over contrasting limestone marls and gréseux, the local compacted sandstone. These are beautiful vineyards with some of the vines planted by Hubert’s father back in the 1960s. As per tradition, many of these plantings are mixed, with varietals such as Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Sylvaner and more all jumbled together, leading to many of the wines being harvested and vinified as field blends – multiple varietals expressing a single location.

Shadowed by the Vosges mountains to the west, despite its northerly position this is a very warm, dry microclimate with long, hot summers with little rain. The potential for high alcohol and a loss of balance in the wine requires careful vineyard work – the cooling marls are very useful for this, likewise big leafy canopies and a south-easterly aspect for morning sun and afternoon shade.

These glorious surroundings are undermined without respect for nature, so it follows that Hubert & Heidi are strong advocates for organic and biodynamic farming and are certified for both, as well as being part of the S.A.I.N.S. association for wine without additives. The soils are ploughed only by horse, and there are no inputs or manipulations in the cellar of any kind. They firmly believe this is the only way.

The cellar itself is a thing of beauty – the grapes are always pressed by hand and two manual, vertical wood-slat presses have been built by Hubert, both with striking mosaic-tiled bases that the juice runs off. Most wines begin their vinification as whole bunches in carbonic maceration, the aim being to achieve great finesse and lifted aromatics. After this stage the juice is raised in a mixture of amphora and old barrels until it is ready to be bottled.

Hubert & Heidi’s dedication has not been without its challenges – many producers in the region share the same climate-related stories and it is hard not to notice the connection between rising temperatures, earlier harvests and the resulting unpredictable behaviour of the wild yeasts. Often fermentations can stop before all of the sugar has been converted. Patience and resourcefulness are essential in these moments and we’re happy to say that in the face of adversity there are tiny quantities of stunning wine emerging from the cellar, whilst others shape themselves more slowly over time.

We were so taken with the clarity of the couple’s vision, their dedication to this small piece of land and their unwillingness to compromise. The wines dazzle in their fantastically pure expression, with sumptuous concentration, soaring aromatics and pitch-perfect balance. They are everything we look for in quality Alsatian wine.

Find out more about Hubert & Heidi Hausherr

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