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One of those rare beasts, a completely sans soufre Champagne from Romain & Thomas Henin's uncompromising La Bulle Libre project. In a region dominated by big-name Champagne houses and prestige, it is refreshing to find something like this. Grower-led, from start to finish, and a wine that reflects a sense of place over a generic 'house style'. A Champagne of terroir that truly fits with the ethos of the other wines we list.
The classic trinity of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay in more or less equal measure. This is a beautiful wine of depth, length and finesse, a touch of structure and beautiful high notes which frame the fruit. In a slightly inverse method to the impressive Meunier tu Dors, the grapes were pressed, spontaneously fermented and aged on the lees in barrels for one year, with a longer rest in the bottle. Following tirage, the wine is re-fermented a la Champagne method by adding reserved grape must from the same vintage and, of course, there is zero doseage.
To achieve this level of precision and finesse by using this completely natural method is something to be applauded. The wine has a couple of years' lees ageing before disgorgement, which brings a judicious opulence into play, with toasty brioche and pastry elements. Really excellent stuff that we urge any lover of Champagne to get involved with pronto.