From fifty year old vines of Pinot Noir planted in one of the steepest, shallowest parts of Saint Romain. True to site, despite the warm vintage this impresses with dark brambly fruit, chalky minerals and soft supple tannins. Find out more.
Pinot Noir from a number of plots of forty year old vines in and around the village of Volnay and a parcel of fifty year old vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges, fermented as whole bunches for a fortnight before a short rest in concrete eggs. Reflecting the vintage, this is pale, lithe and fragrant with raspberries, minerals and spice.
This wine is from the 2021 harvest: an unfathomably difficult one that the Cossards rate as the most trying to date. After four consecutive frosts in April, cold and wet weather persisted, causing terrible problems with mildew and oïdium in the vines and finally, just before harvest, a hail storm decimated the vineyards in the village they call home, Saint-Romain.
The resulting yields were painfully low and at the end of the day, they were not even able to fill a third of the cellar, which hopefully explains the leap in price this year. The good news is that the wines they did make are stunning. Delicate, perfumed and nuanced, they are drinking remarkably well in their youth.
Frederic Cossard is a larger than life character. He is a man with an infectious joie de vivre, with a real passion for life and a love of wine that runs deep. Fred wasn't born into a family of vignerons and so had to start from scratch, no mean feat in Burgundy. Domaine de Chassorney was born in 1996 with a few hectares of vines rented in Saint Romain and Auxey Duresses and now comprises ten hectares of vines across several villages. He also acts as a négociant, which gives him access to fruit from some of the greatest vineyards in Burgundy. These wines are bottled eponymously, as 'Frederic Cossard'. The Cossard's have worked organically from the outset and now focus on homeopathic treatments and remedies tailored to the needs of each site. When fruit is bought, they give the growers a guide for looking after the vines and join them in the vineyards to ensure that work is carried out to their own lofty standards. In doing so they ensure that only the most pristine fruit makes it to their cellars tucked away amongst the limestone cliffs of Saint-Romain. Such scrutiny is necessary to make great wine with no additions, which is exactly what they do. Whites are pressed directly straight to barrel, where they rest on lees until bottling. Reds spend around a month on their skins as whole bunches in open top casks, before being pressed off to barrel, also resting on their lees until bottling. It sounds simple, but the attention to detail in the cellar is second to none and Fred produces Burgundy of rare liveliness, purity and detail.