Given time to open up, a nuanced meld of gently honeyed crisp green apple, lemon sorbet and matchstick reduction float from the glass. Less high-definition-angular than his longer-lived wines, again there is an appealing softness to the structure, with everything hanging in place with casual poise. Salty minerals underpin, and the acidity cuts neatly, with a faint twang of ginger in the long finish. Find out more.