La Vrille's entry white, made from younger vines of Ugni Blanc, that lesser-sung French sibling of Trebbiano. Much the same as that Italian grape, it offers yellow fruits with something a little saline and mineral. This year the grapes were harvested early, keeping things sharp, light-bodied and fresh. Citrus oils, tinned pineapple and green herbs, with some lovely zippy acids that make this a seriously nourishing easy-drinker.
The grapes are direct-pressed in whole bunches and left on the fine lees in steel for 8 months before bottling with no additions. Despite the modest price, this is actually one of their smallest production cuvées - only 1200 bottles were made this vintage.
Méryl and Géraldine Crozier established themselves in the village of Valvignères in 2012 after Méryl had cut his teeth making wine in Madiran in the South West and Mâcon in Burgundy. On returning to the family vineyards and eventually taking the reins, on the advice of Gérald Oustric of Le Mazel, the Croziers stopped supplying grapes to the local co-op, obtained organic certification, and their 5 beautifully verdant hectares of Syrah, Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ugni Blanc & Viognier became La Vrille et le Papillon. The vines all sit over rocky limestone and clay soils and enjoy the moderating effect of the mistral wind as it funnels through the valley. In the cellar fermentations occur naturally and nothing is added. The Croziers are fans of experimentation and, in addition to a regular set of cuvées, each vintage often throws up a list of exciting debut wines too. They have even encouraged their young son, Achille, to get involved. His his own wine, Canon d’Achille, was an out-and-out hit the two years he made it - not bad for a 14 year-old! As well as being keen to try new things, in recent times this has often been ingenuity born from the various climactic struggles they have faced, as unseasonal frost and hail has caused severe losses for the family, as it has for many others. Alongside their Ardèchoise varietals, Méryl has also planted some hybrid vines, curious to see what potential they may hold in the future. Whatever the means, La Vrille et le Papillon wines are always fruit-driven, herbaceous and possess spry aromatic qualities; everything we love in wine from this region.
