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A beautiful single-vineyard cuvée, using the forgotten Sauvignon Gris varietal - know locally as Fié. It's a historical grape of the region that was largely abandoned because of its low yields in favour of the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc. Fié has a much broader, more textural profile and ripens with striking light purple skins. The vineyard is situated on the slopes down to the river Cher, here with particularly deep, well-draining limestone gravel and just a small percentage of clay.
Immediately, the aromatics are open and draw you in - white peach, lemongrass, something a little golden and honeyed. A touch of barrel richness melds nicely with the fleshy textures on show. Citrus notes have an oily quality, and there are savoury notes of peppercorn and fenugreek. It's an altogether less linear style of white than what we have come to expect from this region, lending even more range to Mikaël's output.
The grapes were pressed directly into tanks to begin fermentation then transferred to old 500-litre oak barrels to rest for 10 months before bottling.
Mikaël Bouges works over 8 hectares of land split into various parcels dotted around Faverolles-sur- Cher in Touraine. He learned to tend vines and make wine with his father who had already established the domaine as certified organic as far back as the early 90s, so a thoughtful approach in the vineyard and in the cellar has been with him from the start. The vines sit in the vicinity of the river Cher and as a result have soils of gravelly limestone, speckled with various alluvial deposits of quartz and silex left behind from the historical flow of the water over the centuries. His trademark style is to translate this mineral aspect into the wine - they clearly speak of this typically middle-Loire terroir. In the cellar the wines ferment spontaneously and are not filtered or fined, some with just a small amount of sulphur used only at bottling, some with none at all. We feel they can be very classical in their expression; clean, bright and with incredible purity. We love to pour them for those who are in some way dubious about this very logical way of working - Mikaël’s wines tend to put paid to the sceptics. Displaying an uncanny knack for the ancestral method, Mikaël produces a couple of immaculate pét-nats made with zero additions that number some of the more easygoing and immediate of his output. He also recently began to experiment with a no-sulphur Sauvignon Blanc cuvée, to much success. His other wines are made under the Touraine AOC and display a certain typicity. Those from the younger vines are made completely in tank and are ideal for the table; the older vines see an extended élevage in old barrels and invite deeper contemplation.