Ruth Lewandowski is a project with a winery based in Salt Lake City, Utah and the fruit being sourced from a number of different growers and their individual vineyards around Mendocino in California. The wines are very natural – organic/sustainable fruit, wild yeasts, ambient ferments, mostly no SO2 at all, no filtration, no fining. They are also intensely focussed with an interesting reductive minerality and develop amazingly in the glass. Real West Coast natural wine in complete counterpoint to the big super-brands of the region.
100% Grenache Gris from the ancient vines of Gibson Ranch (planted around the turn of the 20th century, making it the oldest documented example of the variety in the US), this white is an exercise in restraint, balance and the art of the slow reveal. Grenache Gris, being a textural variety, has an uncanny ability to provide weight, texture and breadth while still providing a fresh hit of acid to keep it all in line and propped up. Not flashy or spoofy in any way, rather, Naomi is concentrated elegance, intensely nuanced. The vineyard has well drained sedimentary soils, with both colluvial and alluvial gravelly loam making up much of the vineyard land here, which provides a noticeable mineral lift to the wines.