Some seriously classy Burgundy from Monsieur Thomas Pico in Chablis. Razor-sharp Chardonnay over limestone, for those who 'don't like Chardonnay', as the addage goes. Some real finesse on show here: the grapes come from three separate parcels of low-yielding 40-year old vines, fermented spontaneously together and then the juice divided into stainless steel and cement egg for over a year of maturation. The blend gives great purity and mouthwatering, zesty grapefruit, along with saline, apricot fruit and texture from the concrete. Incredibly clean, long finish.