Anton Von Klopper is a notorious figure in Australian winemaking, at once for his uncompromising approach to any additions in the wine whatsoever, but also for his intuitive, experimental - you might even say avant garde - approach in the cellar. Anton's philosophy in his own words:
"‘Natural wine’ is simply wine made from grapes. But it is so much more, because ‘natural’ is not greed, capitalism, chemical, or control. It is a metamorphosis to allow the archetypal beverage to form. Therefore, natural wine cannot be made by greedy people; you must have a relationship with the vines that offer you their fruit, and it would be a sin to manipulate them with chemicals, so they must be farmed organically. To adulterate nature’s work by filtering, fining, or any addition, including small amounts of sulfur, is not natural. I’m proud to be amongst the makers of these wines. Even though there are high risks of volatile acidity, mousiness, brettanomyces, and lactic acid bacteria fermentation, it is enlivening to learn the skills and walk with nature. The most challenging part of natural winemaking is to live with the naysayers who choose recipe over craft. I am thankful for those who support natural wine. It is good for your body and creates a more beautiful world"
The 'P' in question here is Pinot Noir and the 'M' Merlot, but this isn't your conventional jammy Aussie Red. The fruit has a cooler-climate tartness to it, savoury and game-y with a fascinating lick of wild mint cutting through the soily earth. Anton for PM!