Julien Labet Les Varrons Chardonnay 2016

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Sud Revermont, Jura, France
Fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered & unfined, no additional sulphites

If you've got this far because you're on the hunt for the wines of Julien Labet then we probably don't need to go into much more detail; if you're unfamiliar then you're looking at a listing for some incredibly hard-to-find wine from one of the most sought-after growers in the Jura, who due to the size of the domaine, and often difficult growing conditions, produces in quantities that make allocations scant and therefore highly coveted. And for good reason - these are elegant, modern Jura wines, that have a particularly Burgundian leaning in terms of finesse, but still embrace the soils and methods of the region. The wines are generally topped-up in the 'ouillé' style in contrast to the older traditional style with partial oxidative effects under a protective cover of flora yeast.

Les Varrons is a direct pressing of Chardonnay from east-facing vines planted over limestone clay way back in the 1930s & 40s. Expect profound old vine complexity in the fruit, resulting in a thrillingly fine-tuned wine of multiple layers: crystalline, structured acidity that has the precision of a laser cutter, green apple, preserved lemon and quince-y fruit, then all manner of floral, nutty and spice aromas come wafting out of the glass... toasted hazelnut, garam marsala, sweet almond, verbena lemon oil... One to take your time with; preferably over a large quantity of Comté or a creamy dish of chicken and mushrooms. You can count the amount in our cellar on one hand.