One of Grégoire's negociant wines, made using two different strains of Chasselas from the neighbouring, and fairly unknown Pays de Gex region that sits about as close to Switzerland as is possible, whilst still remaining in France. Forget what you think you know about the oft-neutral wines of Savoie and Bugey - this is something a little different. There is a whole lot more depth and flesh than one might expect, but there is still that cut-glass edge, contrasting with a lactic sort of roundness that keeps things distinctly alpine. The wine is raised in a mixture of old wood and stoneware and has a come-hither golden glow to it. A must for when you hit the Comté hard.
Grégoire Perron, a young and discreet winemaker, has been working since 2010 in Journans in the Ain region, on a two-hectare micro estate located in the heart of the Bugey region. After 15 years of experience in viticulture, Grégoire modestly took over vines with a heavy chemical past, but having known ploughing a long time ago. Then he began the conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture : the plots are grassed, worked and harvested by hand. The grass is mowed from spring to harvest, then the Thones sheep (Martod and Soay) take over to maintain the rows and naturally fertilize the vines with their droppings. At the same time, he set up his négoce : Le Foudre d’Escampette, and bought different grape varieties in Burgundy and Savoy. The result is good but the production is only about 6000 bottles… Confidential cuvées that deserve to be in the spotlight. (Profile by Pur Jus)