Domaine Bobinet Du Rififi à Beaulieu 2020

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Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France
Chardonnay & Chenin Blanc
Fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered & unfined, minimal additional sulphites
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Sebastien and Émeline have vines planted around Saumur on the banks of the Loire. Their cellar in Beaulieu is a cave that is dug about 500m deep into the soft limestone cliffs. Inside the temperature is a stable 12 degrees all year round – perfect for making wine with minimal chemical intervention. The soil in their vineyards is the same limestone but of varying ages and densities. When he inherited his tiny surface of vines in 2003 Seb wanted to work the land and make his wines with the utmost respect for nature and his juice. Over time their vineyard surface has expanded to around 4 hectares but they continue to work with the same philosophy and dedication making wines of great purity.

Rififi is a pet nat that demonstrates that not all wines made in this style end up in the hazy, funky style. This one is a particularly well turned-out example, showing an impressive amount of savoury depth alongside that cutting, mouthwatering acidity. Maybe not quite the concentration of a cremant-style wine, but the loose bubbles feel light and airy and the whole thing just hangs together so well. Pristine stuff.