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Anne & Jean-François Ganevat Kopin! 2017

£35.00
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REGION:
Rotalier, Côtes du Jura, France
GRAPES:
Chardonnay & Riesling
VINEYARD:
Organic & Biodynamic
CELLAR:
Fermented with native yeasts, unfiltered & unfined, no additional sulphites

The details change slightly every year with Kopin, but the wine always remains one of Ganevat's more instantly pleasurable and immediate. This year the blend traverses the geography of the northeast of France; Chardonnay comes from both the Jura and the Macon in Burgundy, with some Alsatian Riesling for good measure. It's under these declassified VDF labels that Ganevat is to be found at his most free and experimental. There's a lovely clear, crystalline quality to the fruit here - high notes of citrus from the Riesling as well as some fleshy structure from the Chardonnay; the Jura batch seemingly bringing with it some nutty, walnut flavours, but overall things are breezy and lifted. By way of translation the name of the wine is something like exclaiming 'Mate!' in English - perhaps this is the most economical way to describe it.

Ganevat comes from a long line of winegrowers, dating as far back as 1650, although the family supplemented their grape growing with a dairy that produced milk destined for the local cheese, Comté, until 1976. After working both for his father and for the prestigious Domaine Jean-Marc Morey in Chassagne- Montrachet, Jean-François returned to the Jura in 1998 to take over the family domaine. With only eight-and-a-half hectares under vine, the family had seventeen different local varietals planted of both red and white grapes—an incredible amount of variation to consider for holdings of such small size. For such a fervent perfectionist and insatiable lover of details as Jean-François, the decision to have the domaine certified as biodynamic was a natural choice.